Using Strobes
In the club we've had a few evening workshops based on using strobes, both studio type powered from the mains, and small flashes, both on and off camera. This quiz is aimed at helping you get there yourself without one of the members who regularly uses flash.
Some questions have multiple correct answers, but be sure to read all the possible answers before choosing
Good Luck!
Start
Congratulations - you have completed Using Strobes.
You scored %%SCORE%% out of %%TOTAL%%. That's %%PERCENTAGE%%
Your performance has been rated as %%RATING%%
Please leave your comments below
Your answers are highlighted below.
Question 1 |
What is the inverse Square law?
A | the light on your subject is proportional to one over the square of the distance from the light source |
B | if you use a powerful flash you have to use big modifiers to stop overheating |
C | The more Powerful the flash the longer it takes to recharge between flashes |
D | The square on the hypotenuse is equal to the sum of the squares on the other two sides Hint: Sorry that's Pythagoras' Theorem |
Question 1 Explanation:
if your subject is 1 m and and the light is1 m away you can get an exposure. If you double the distance from the light, not only will the shadows be harder, but you will need 2 stops more light
Double the distance again to 4m and you will need another 2 stops or 4 stops morethan the original shot
Question 2 |
I'm taking a portrait, and want the light to fall off rapidly away from the subject's face, while still providing overall illumination. How do I go about this with just one flash?
A | Use a Spot reflector Hint: Might work as there is more spill than from a snoot, again it will depend on how you use it |
B | Use a beauty dish Hint: Partially correct, the beauty dish is intended to provide a wide soft light source, so it all depends on how you use it |
C | Use a snoot on my flash Hint: While a scoot concentrates light well, it prevents spill so you will get no overall illumination |
D | Using my modifier of choice bring the flash very close to the sitter's face, angled toward the other areas I want to illuminate |
Question 2 Explanation:
This is the inverse square law in action. if the extra distance to the sitter's face is small the distance to where the light has dropped noticeably will also be small
Question 3 |
In which of these situations might Fill flash be useful? (multiple answers)
A | bring light in under a hat |
B | Illuminate the further parts of a room |
C | General illumination |
D | balance the subject against a bright background |
E | light a secondary object in the frame |
Question 3 Explanation:
Fill flash is intended to give a lift to darker areas in an image that is otherwise lit. As such it is usually at a lower intensity than that main illumination
Question 4 |
With conventional electronic flashes there is a choice between First curtain Sync and Second curtain sync. Which should I use for fill flash on a moving subject?
A | Second curtain sync |
B | It doesn't matter, the flash will freeze the motion. Hint: This is only true if the flash is effectively the only light source |
C | First Curtain sync Hint: This will look weird, possibly ok for dancers, otherwise the blur from the ambient light will make the subject appear to be moving backwards |
Question 4 Explanation:
The ambient light exposure will leave a blur where the subject has been, the the flash will freeze the subject at the front of the blur giving the "cartoon speed " blur
Question 5 |
Some flash systems are described as TTL, what does this mean?
A | The Flash uses the camera's measurement of focus distance to decide how much power to discharge |
B | The camera tells the flash to pre-discharge at 1/128 power, so it can measure how much power should be used a moment later when the shutter is open |
C | The electronics use Transistor-Transistor Logic |
D | The flash can be used with cameras which use Through The Lens focusing |
Question 6 |
Why might you increase your exposure from the flash sync speed (eg 1/200) to a much longer period e.g. 1/30
A | To get blur and sense of motion |
B | To bring up those areas lit by the ambient light |
C | To decrease the Aperture and get a bigger depth of field Hint: The Aperture really only controls how much light comes in from the Flash, shutter speed does not affect this |
D | To get more light from the flash Hint: The flash is vere short |
Question 7 |
What is a gobo?
A | A go-between who arranges facilities and models |
B | Spitting in the street Hint: Illegal in Singapore, but this quiz is about flashes |
C | A go-between that prevents the light of the flash coming straight into the camera causing flare |
D | A brand of reflector Hint: Not as far as I know |
E | Another term for an assistant |
Question 7 Explanation:
Another name for a GoBo is a Flag. Extremely useful in product photography. A DIY gobo will typically be made from corex and hoop&loop tape and employ an unused light stand. Commercial gobs are much more expensive
Question 8 |
What is (canon) HSS (nikon) Auto FP sync?
A | Hot Shoe Sync, a flash gun with no PC socket |
B | High Speed Steel -- used for making power tools Hint: Not in this context |
C | High Speed Sync, |
D | A chain of hire shops Hint: Not in this context |
Question 8 Explanation:
High Speed Sync is a proprietary method used within a camera system to fire a speedlight multiple times - a sort of continuous very high frequency strobe - as the shutter gap moves across the sensor to ensure the whole image is exposed on the sensor.
There is a constraint that the power level has to be sufficiently low to allow all the multiple micro-discharges to take place from the charge in the capacitors of the speedlights.
The speed light fires at about 40/50 thousand times per second for the duration of the gap between the curtains crossing the sensor. this means that even if the exposure is 1/8000 each strip of sensor will be illuminated 5 or 6 times
Question 9 |
When using a Reflected Light Flash Meter and a seamless background what do you need to get an apparently white background?
A | I need to use a white background Hint: A pure wite background is acheived by completely overexposing the background no mater what colour it is -- even black |
B | The background must be 3 stops brighter than the subject, it can be any colour |
C | My lens has to be extra clean to avoid flare Hint: While this is true in general it is not what we need here |
D | I need a green background and good lighting so I can cut the subject out and place it on a plain white layer Hint: Too complicate |
Question 9 Explanation:
A white background is achieved by overexposing it so that it "blows out." If it is unevenly lit, the darkest part as to be 3 stops brighter than the subject, but it is easiest to strive for even lighting
Question 10 |
What is a CTO (Colour Temperature Orange) gel?
A | A filter to make a scene lit with incandescent light less orange for a daylight balanced film Hint: Nope that would be blue |
B | A filter for making daylight scenes look as though they are lit with incandescent bulbs Hint: Well you could, but not in this context |
C | A fruit jelly with a liquid filling |
D | a filter to go in front of the flash to make the light more like that from an incandescent bulb, to better match the rest of the scene |
Question 11 |
When using a Flash meter in incident light mode where should you point the dome?
A | Toward the light source |
B | Toward the ceiling Hint: You are trying to measure the light falling on the subject, pointing at the ceiling loses some of the light and leads to overexposure |
C | Toward the camera Hint: This is a common mistake. You are trying to measure the light falling on the subject, pointing at the camera just shades the sensor and leads to overexposure |
D | Toward the background Hint: this is something you might do with a reflected light meter, to measure the ratio between the subject exposure and the background either to get a black or white background |
Question 11 Explanation:
th correct exposure is based on the incident light on the best lit parts of your subject
Question 12 |
When using a Reflected Light Flash Meter and a seamless background what do you need to get an apparently black background?
A | the background has to be 5 stops darker than the subject |
B | the background has to be 1 stop darker than the subject |
C | the background has to be 2 stop lighter than the subject |
D | the background has to be 3 stops darker than the subject |
Question 12 Explanation:
This answer may change if sensors get a greater dynamic range
Question 13 |
What is Red Eye?
A | A setting on a compact camera which gives a double flash intended to make the sitter avert their eyes Hint: Often used by teenagers as timing to pull silly faces once the photographer is committed |
B | light reflecting straight back from inside the subject's eye when using on-camera Flash, giving a bright red "iris" |
C | Conjunctivitis Hint: Not in this context |
D | A political advertising poster in England Hint: No that was flames |
Question 14 |
If the power and position of the strobe has been set, how can you adjust the exposure?
A | Change the Shutter (T/Tv) speed on the camera Hint: The strobe fires for a very much shorter time than the shutter is open, so you need a different way of adjusting how much light reaches your sensor |
B | Change the ISO setting on a digital camera |
C | Change the Aperture (A/Av) setting of the camera lens |
D | Take the shot from a different angle, nearer or further from the strobe. Hint: The light falling on the subject remains the same. |
E | Move closer / further from the subject Hint: The light falling on your subject is not changing, all you will achieve is changing how much background is included in the shot, but not the light from the subject. |
Question 14 Explanation:
To change the exposure the light coming into the Camera (or it's effect) has top change. As the light on the subject will remain constant all you can change is the Aperture, or the ISO, and usually you will be at your lowest ISO already.
Question 15 |
What does Flash Sync Speed mean?
A | The longest exposure time you can have with the flash |
B | The duration of the flash generated by the strobe |
C | The delay from pressing the shutter release to the flash firing |
D | The shortest time the shutter can be open for flash |
Question 15 Explanation:
Shutter curtains move across the film or sensor of your camera to let in light. For short exposures they are both moving and only a small part of the sensor is exposed at any instant. Longer exposures have a period when the whole sensor is exposed. Sync speed is the shortest exposure where the whole sensor will recieve light from a single flash
Once you are finished, click the button below. Any items you have not completed will be marked incorrect.
Get Results
There are 15 questions to complete.
← |
List |
→ |
Return
Shaded items are complete.
1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 |
6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 |
11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 |
End |
Return
You have completed
questions
question
Your score is
Correct
Wrong
Partial-Credit
You have not finished your quiz. If you leave this page, your progress will be lost.
Correct Answer
You Selected
Not Attempted
Final Score on Quiz
Attempted Questions Correct
Attempted Questions Wrong
Questions Not Attempted
Total Questions on Quiz
Question Details
Results
Date
Score
Hint
Time allowed
minutes
seconds
Time used
Answer Choice(s) Selected
Question Text
All done
Need more practice!
Keep trying!
Not bad!
Good work!
Perfect!